Trimming Dog Paws, Ears, and Muzzle: How to Safely Perform Detail Work

Short answer: Trim dog paws with a small clipper or a #10 or #15 Blade: first remove the hair between the paw pads, then trim around the edge of the foot. For ears, only trim the outside of the ear flap, never inside the ear canal. Around the eyes, work exclusively with rounded-tip shears.

Most accidents happen during detail work: thin skin, small areas, and a dog that moves the most in those spots. Below, for each body part, we explain what needs to be removed and with what tool.

In Short

• Hair between the paw pads causes slipping, matting, ice clumps, and inflammation. Trim it every 4 to 6 weeks.
• On the paws, use a #10 Blade (approx. 1.6 mm) or #15 Blade (approx. 1.2 mm).
• Do not pluck hair *in* the ear canal yourself; only do so on the advice of your veterinarian.
• Never cut whiskers: they are sensory organs with their own nerves and blood supply.
• Around the eyes, lips, and anus, work with rounded-tip shears or a small clipper, never with a large machine.

Why should hair between the paw pads be removed?

The paw pads are the only point of contact with the ground. If the hair between the pads grows into a matted layer, grip is lost, and your dog will slip on laminate, tiles, and stairs. For older dogs and dogs with hip or back problems, this poses an injury risk. Long paw hair also collects all sorts of things:

• Mats that pull on the skin between the toes and cause pain with every step.
• Ice and snow clumps in winter, which become rock hard and push the toes apart.
• Grass, sand, and seeds, including grass seeds that can burrow into the skin.
• Moisture, which can quickly lead to interdigital inflammation: inflammation of the skin between the toes, recognizable by a red bump, licking, and limping.

Therefore, trim the paw pads during every grooming session, every 4 to 6 weeks.

How to trim dog paws step by step?

1. Hold the paw at the bend of the joint, not by the toes. This prevents your dog from pulling away.
2. Rotate the paw so the paw pad faces upwards. Bend the joint along with it, never force it.
3. Spread the pads with your thumb and forefinger. The hair will stand up, and the skin will be taut.
4. Shave the hair flush with the pads, using short strokes and keeping the Blade flat.
5. Feel with your finger afterwards; if it still feels matted, go over it one more time.
6. Then trim the "dog foot circle": hold the clipper or shears perpendicular and follow the outline of the foot, creating a round shape that doesn't drag on the ground.

A #10 Blade leaves approximately 1.6 mm and is the safe standard; a #15 Blade (approx. 1.2 mm) gives a smoother result but less margin. The lengths corresponding to different Blade numbers can be found under attachment combs and Blades with their cutting lengths.

How to safely trim the ears?

Different advice applies to the two types of ear hair.

Hair on the ear flap

You may shave the outside of the ear flap. Lay the ear flat on your open hand so you know where the edge is, and work with a small clipper in the direction of hair growth. Do not use a Blade shorter than #10: the skin is so thin there that you can easily nick it. For the edge, use grooming shears with a rounded tip: cut parallel to the edge, with the tip pointing away from your dog.

Hair in the ear canal

Do not simply pluck hair *in* the ear canal. This used to be standard practice for breeds with a lot of ear hair, but nowadays it is only done on the advice of a veterinarian: plucking can damage hair follicles, and the irritation can actually trigger an ear infection. If the ear smells or your dog shakes its head, consult a veterinarian.

How to trim the muzzle and face?

The face is the smallest and most sensitive area. Work here with a small clipper or rounded-tip shears.

1. Keep eyes clear. Trim the hair above the eyes short enough to ensure clear vision. Hold the shears horizontally with the tip pointing outwards and support your hand on the dog's head.
2. The stop and the bridge of the nose. The stop is the transition from the forehead to the bridge of the nose. Work with short strokes away from the eyes towards the nose, never towards the eyes.
3. Leave whiskers intact. They are sensory organs with their own nerves and blood supply; your dog uses them to sense distance and airflow, especially in the dark.
4. Lips and chin. Trim with small strokes to reduce food and saliva accumulation.

The rule: never use a large machine around the eyes. The cutting surface is too wide, and one sudden movement is enough to cause injury.

How to perform sanitary trim and trim the armpits?

The sanitary trim keeps the hair around the anus and genitals short, preventing matting and urine scald. Work with a small clipper, keep the skin taut, and shave outwards from the opening. Do not touch mucous membranes.

The armpits require attention because the skin there lies in folds. Lift the front leg forward to smooth out the fold before working. Never cut straight through mats.

Which tool belongs to which zone?

Why does a small clipper work better here than a large machine?

For the body, you use a large clipper with an A5 Blade: a universal, interchangeable Blade that fits almost all professional dog clippers. For detail work, that machine is a handicap:

• Reach. A narrow head fits between the toes and along the eye line; an A5 Blade of over 4 cm does not.
• Visibility. A large machine precisely covers the skin you are looking at.
• Noise. Close to the ear canal, a quiet device offers the least resistance.
• Vibration. Less vibration means less tug in your hand if your dog moves.

The Clipr MiniTrim is designed precisely for this: small, light, quiet, narrow head. Keep the large machine for the body, as described in the step-by-step guide to clipping your dog yourself. Combs, anti-slip mats, and grooming supplies can be found under accessories.

Which mistakes happen most often, and when should you go to the grooming salon?

Three mistakes occur most frequently: using too short a Blade on the ear flap, cutting into a mat between the toes without feeling where the skin is, and continuing to work while your dog resists.

Go to the grooming salon or veterinarian if an ear smells or is red, if there's a red spot between the toes, for matted clumps, and for a dog that won't allow its paws or ears to be touched. If your dog doesn't tolerate detail work, first teach them with the acclimation program for a dog afraid of clippers.

Are you unsure if one small clipper will suffice? The selection guide provides specific advice.

Last updated: August 19, 2026. Author: Clipr Team, specialists in dog clippers and grooming tools. This advice applies to the Dutch situation.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I remove hair between the paw pads?

Every 4 to 6 weeks, along with the rest of the grooming session. For dogs that walk a lot in grass, sand, or snow, every 3 to 4 weeks. Check in between with your finger: if it feels matted, it's too long.

Can I pluck hair from my dog's ears myself?

Only on the advice of your veterinarian. Plucking can damage hair follicles and may cause irritation or an ear infection. You can, however, shave the outside of the ear flap yourself with a small clipper, and the edge of the ear with rounded-tip shears.

Can you cut a dog's whiskers?

No. Whiskers are sensory organs with their own nerves and blood supply that your dog uses to feel distance and airflow, especially in the dark and right in front of its nose. Cutting them offers no benefit and deprives the dog of information. So, trim around them and leave them intact.

Which Blade do I use for the paws?

A #10 Blade leaves approximately 1.6 mm and is the safe standard for between the paw pads. A #15 Blade (approx. 1.2 mm) gives a smoother result but less margin with a moving dog. Clipr advises against using Blades shorter than #15 on paws and face.